Big Elk River

History

Edmond Jennings was said to be the first white settler in Southwest Missouri. He was a North Carolinian who moved to Jackson County, Tennessee. Jennings then moved west and lived with the area Indians for fifteen years. When Jennings went back to Jackson County, people from all over came to hear him speak. The only problem was he had not spoken the English language in so long it was hard to understand him. He told them the tales of  "The Country of Six Boils", but it sounded like "Six Bulls". Valentine Miller settled in McDonald County six years later in 1827. The six boils referred to the six great springs that feed a number of creeks and rivers in the Ozarks. Indian Creek, Shoal Creek, Center Creek, Spring River, James River, and North Fork.

Some time later a missionary group visited the area Indians. During this time they were camping between two streams. The rains fell and the river rose. They had no choice but to stay until the water fell. During this time they killed a Buffalo cow for food. The skin was preserved and the missionary gave the name Buffalo to the creek and cowskin to the river. Later Cowskin became known as Elk river because of all the elk in the area. John Roseberry found a set of elk horns so big that when he placed the tips on the ground he could stand under the crown.

Daniel Boone also lived in the area and helped many of the first settlers through the trails of the Ozarks until 1812. They say that Boone made himself a coffin from walnut. He felt that he was going to die soon. But his neighbor's wife died suddenly and Boone gave him the coffin to bury her in.

The Ozark hills were covered with a wide range of trees, fruits, and berries. The first settlers used many of these to make syrup, jellies, and jams. Several kinds of nuts were used also.

In 1938, Hollywood came to the town of Pineville. The film "The Life of Missouri's Robin Hood, Jesse James", was filmed in the area. Pineville hosts Jesse James Days every year. You can see the movie, tour the town, and have fun just reliving the past. Several craft booths are set up along the town.

The town of Pineville was first known as Maryville. In 1847 nine blocks were laid out. Lots started being sold. After some time, the town's name was changed to Pineville because most of the lumber that was cut at the local sawmill was pine. It came from the pine forests that almost reached the town's borders. One mile upstream on Little Sugar was Havenhurst Mill. This mill supplied all the power to the town of Pineville at one time. Havenhurst Mill is now open and contains a restaurant and ice cream parlor. Just a few miles off Hwy. 71 on K Hwy. is Huckleberry Ridge State Park. This park is open to hunters in season. Wild Turkey and Whitetail Deer can be found just about everywhere. A census taken in 1925 found only 395 deer statewide. Missouri passed one of the strongest conservation programs in the U.S.. Hunting was outlawed until the population could be maintained.

There was no real effort to boom the town of Noel. This town began to grow when the railroad came through town. There are many things that make Noel famous. First is the name itself. Known as the Christmas city; people send their Christmas cards here just for the postmark. Highway 59 from Lanagan to Noel is noted for its overhanging bluffs that line Indian Creek all the way into Noel. It is also known as the Canoe Capital of the Ozarks. There are several area caves to tour. There are more than 500 explored caves in McDonald County. The old mill at the end of town created a lake out of Elk River. Lake St. Claire is the place to be during the summer months. Boating, fishing, and swimming are just some of the things you can enjoy. Summer cabins line the lake and several canoe outfitters offer camping and fun for the whole family.

Characteristics

Big Sugar flows in from the east and meets Little Sugar flowing north out of Arkansas in Pineville. This is the start of Elk River. It is 23 miles long and has a steady gradient of about 4. This makes Elk River one of the best rivers in the area for families with children of those who have never floated before. The first section is 6 miles. Indian Creek enters from the north and doubles up the volume of Elk River. Just past the K.C. Southern R.R. bridge is a low water bridge. If the water is up and moving fast, portage around this bridge. Mile 11*, the town of Noel. Lake St. Claire starts and Butler Creek enters from the south. Mile 21* Highwwy 43 or Cowskin Bridge. Mile 23* Oklahoma State line. Elk River becomes Grand Lake of the Cherokees.

Seasons

Spring and summer are the best for family functions. Fall in the Ozarks is a must see. The changing color of the trees on the bluff and the reflections in the calm, clear waters, make this a perfect time to float or fish Elk River. Winter brings out all the caves and bluffs that were hidden in the summertime. Several Bald Eagles have been spotted up and down the river in the last few years. (I counted 23 in one day.)

Fishing

Fishing this river is some of the best in the Ozarks. Records have been set and continue to climb. Just kick off your shoes and stay awhile. There are several kinds of fish in the Ozark waters. Here are some you just might find. largemouth bass, spotted bass, channel catfish, carp, crappie, sunfish, bluegill, and sometimes paddlefish/spoonbill. The largest caught in Missouri weighed 130 pounds.

For more information contact

The Missouri Department of Conservation
P.O. Box 180
Jefferson City, MO 65102-0180

 
 
 

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