Big Sugar Creek

Edmond Jennings, a North Carolinian settler of Jackson County, Tennessee, is said to be the first white settler of this area. Jennings then moved west, hunting and fishing with the area Indians. After fifteen years, Jennings went back to Jackson County. The area people gathered around to hear about the Country of the "Six Bulls"-- Six Boils, referring to the six great springs which now feed several of the creeks of Southwest Missouri: Indian Creek, Shoal Creek, Center Creek, Spring River, and North Fork. Jennings had not spoken the English language for several years and "Six Boils" sounded like "Six Bulls." Six years later, in 1827, Valentine Miller settled in McDonald County.

At one time, there was a number of sugar tree orchards on these two creeks. The first settlers were supplied with syrup, sugar and a wide variety of trees, fruits and nuts. Some of these were, water oak, post oak, pin oak, white oak, giant sycamore, pine, cedar, elm, blackhaw, cinquapin, walnut, hickory, and several types of maples. Some of the fruits that were used are: huckleberry, blackberry, raspberry, strawberry, dewberry, wild plum, cherry, apple, paw-paw, May apple and persimmon.

Daniel Boone lived along the banks of Big Sugar and led some of the early settlers through the Ozark trails. When ready to die, Boone made himself a walnut coffin, but his neighbor's wife died suddenly and Boone gave the coffin to his neighbor.

At the junction of Brush Creek, stood one of the largest mills anywhere. Heavy rains washed this mill away in the late 1800's. A smaller mill was built near the old dam. Several mills dotted Bentonville Hollow and Creek into Arkansas. Just outside the town of Powell, about two hundred feet, was a mill built back in the early 1840's. In July of 1883, the Ozarks were part of a major flood that destroyed most of the mills along the rivers and streams. Part of the mill dam can still be seen today. Mikes Creek enters into Big Sugar and they say several mills were along this creek.

Bee Bluff is famous not only because of the high bluffs, but also because of the honeybees that made this their home for hundreds of years. The holes in Bee Bluff were filled with honey and nobody could climb the walls to retrieve the sweet, golden treasure. Bee Bluff Hole is known for its deep water and large fish.

During the Civil War, very few people lived in the hills of McDonald County. The country was robbed and burned by rebels and outlaws. Many of the old mills were burned along with farms, houses, and in some cases, entire settlements. At one time, the only people in southwest Missouri lived in the towns of Neosho and Newtonia, until the war was over. A gang of outlaws used a cave in the side of the bluff at the Horseshoe Bend just above the settlement of Cyclone for a hideout. They could see everything before them and it was almost impossible to scale down the side of the bluff to the cave. One day, their luck did change as law officers captured them with their bounty. They were sent to the penitentiary. Today, this is known as Penitentiary Bend.

The town of Cyclone was established in 1896. This came about after a cyclone swept through the area in 1883, destroying everything in its path. As the story goes, the Cyclone area was an Indian trading post for many years. An Indian baby was found here at the John Mullison farm. It was wrapped in deerskin and mummified. Indian burial grounds have been found in this area. The baby is now in the Smithsonian Institute. James Cowan built a store here and it was also used as a post office until 1873. The Cyclone Mill was built around 1883. The original low water bridge was used by movie makers for the movie of Jesse James in 1938. In the 1820;s, W. W. Chace opened a boys' camp on the edge of Cyclone and named it Camp Tilden. Today this is a popular campground, RV park and canoe outfitter. Many Indian arrowheads have been found here through the years.

Characteristics

Big Sugar starts near the Arkansas state line. Only about 24 miles of this is floatable during the spring and summer. The gradient is near 9 from Highway 90 to Cyclone and 6 to Pineville. Big Sugar starts from three tributaries. One flows north from Garfield, Arkansas, and one, west near Seligman, Missouri, and another, south from Washburn, Missouri. Big Sugar flows west down Sugar Creek Valley, where it is joined by Otter Creek, from Pea Ridge, Arkansas. Flowing north for two or three miles, Big Sugar is joined by White Oak. Flowing north for four more miles is Brush Creek. Next is the town of Mountain. Its name comes from the very high mountain across the creek where the mill and store stood. From Mountain, Big Sugar flows west for two miles where Pine Creek joins.

The first section is 5 miles and has a gradient of 9. The second section is 10 miles and has a gradient of 6. The last 9 miles have a gradient of 7.

Flowing west, Big Sugar goes through the town of Powell. Mile 6*, Bentonville Hollow and Creek join Big Sugar at Highway E Bridge. One mile past Powell, Mikes Creek enters from the east. At MIle 8* stands the famous Bee Bluff, known for its high cliffs which tower against the side of the mountain. Bee Bluff Hole is known for its deep water and large fish. Mile 12* west at the end of Highway V, is Little Cedar Hollow on the right. Mile 13* Penitentiary Bend is the Horseshoe Bend just above the town of Cyclone. Next is the town of Cyclone. A large mill was built on the island and plans have been made to fix the original mill dam that has fallen apart for many years. Mile 20* MDC Deep Ford (public) and low water bridge. Mile 24* Big Sugar splits, the old channel flows to the right and takes you into the town of Pineville. The left channel meets Little Sugar, and Elk River is formed. Today, Big Sugar is one of the best floating streams in the state. Children and adults alike will love this float through the southwest Ozarks. The clear water and high bluffs that surround the Ozark hills make this float very interesting. Be sure to pack a camera along. There are many campgrounds, RV parks, and canoe outfitters along the way, so make yourself at home.

Seasons

The Big Sugar is a river for all seasons. Camping, hiking, backpacking, horseback riding, fishing, swimming, and canoeing offer a great family getaway. Spring and summer offer the best floating conditions. Fall and winter offer sights that can't be seen during the summer. Caves and bluffs line the banks all the way into Arkansas. Fall colors on the hills and reflections in the water will remind you why we love the Ozarks.

Fishing

The fishing in the Ozarks is as good as it gets. Here are some of the fish you might find while fishing the Ozark regions: rock bass, golden redhorse, northern hog sucker, channel catfish, checkered madtom, plains topminnow, largemouth bass, spotted bass, green sunfish, longear sunfish, bluegill, redear sunfish, white crappie, and walleye.

For more information, contact:

The Missouri Department of Conservation
P.O. box 180
Jefferson City Missouri  64102-0180


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